If you prefer learning via video, here is one from Charleston Animal Society explaining how to teach this exercise, and here is another one from Bravo Dog Training & Behaviour. Here is a lovely graphic from Alice Tong that explains the Engage-Disengage Game in detail. Mark and reward as soon as the dog looks away (disengages) from the trigger. Let the dog look at the trigger for a few seconds and wait. Mark and reward the dog as soon as he looks at the trigger (engages). I often begin training with straight desensitization and counter conditioning exercises, but then progress to using the Engage-Disengage Game. Repeat as many times as needed until trigger is gone or dog is calm enough to continue walk. Scatter 3-5 treats on the ground and let your dog hunt for them. Also use to give your dog a break and help him calm down (works best in grass). Scatter: Use to distract your dog when you are unable to completely avoid a trigger. Use the name game, treat magnet, or gentle but steady pressure on the leash/collar/harness to turn your dog away from the trigger. (Make sure that you are the one moving toward your dog, rather than pulling your dog toward you.) Repeat until your hands are close to your dog's collar. Place one hand in front of the other along the leash, as if you were climbing a rope. Walking hands up the leash: Use when your dog is at the end of a tight leash, and you need to get closer to get his attention or lead him away. The handful of treats should act like a “magnet” attached to his nose - he doesn’t look up or away, just keeps his attention fully focused on the food. Let him continue to eat the treats as he's walking away. Hold your hand into a lightly closed fist or “tunnel” shape, and place it directly in front of your dog's nose.Īs your dog starts to lick or nibble at the treats, lure his head to the side and have him follow the treats until he's turned around and walking away from the trigger.
There should be enough treats that your dog can lick and nibble for a while, but not so many that they’re falling out of your hand. Grab a small handful of treats in your hand. Treat magnet: Use to distract and lead your dog away if he’s to too worked up to respond to the “u-turn” cue, or when you really don’t want him to look around and spot a trigger in the area. Reward your dog for catching up with you. With your dog on leash, walk forward a few steps. Later on, this will also make it easier for your dog to do the Engage-Disengage exercise (see below). U-turn: Use to cue your dog to turn around voluntarily, without stress and without alerting him that a trigger is nearby. Name game: Use to improve your dog's responsiveness to his name.
Practice until your dog responds correctly and happily to each cue. You should first practice them randomly at home and on walks, when everything is calm and there are NO triggers around. I refer to these as “exit strategies” because they are most commonly used to prevent your dog from getting into a bad situation, or getting him out when he’s already starting to go over threshold. Before we jump into set ups and working around triggers, work on these foundation exercises.
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